Review on Natural Lip Balm
Cosmetics are incredibly in demand since historical times. These days focus shifted more towards naturally derived cosmetic products. Among all cosmetic products, lip balm formulations are most widely used to enhance the beauty of lips and add a glamour touch to the makeup.
Lip balms offer a natural way to maintain and promote healthy lips. Current cosmetic lip products are based on the use of enormous chemical ingredients with various side effects. Hence in this work, an attempt has been made to study natural ingredients used to formulate natural lip balm.
This article reviews the essential ingredients used for natural lip balm along with their merits and limitations. The natural lip balm can be made using naturally occurring base, oils, extract, color, and flavoring agents which can be evaluated for their resistance to temperature variations, pleasant flavor, and smoothness during the application, adherence, easy intentional removal, etc.
Keywords: natural lip balm; herbal cosmetics; natural ingredients
1. Introduction
Cosmetics plays a significant role in today’s lifestyle.
Moreover, the current trend is going green in almost all industries including cosmetics to adopt a more natural way of life. The preferable choices are natural food, herbal medicines, and natural curing practices for healthy life and also there is much demand for organic vegetable products. The usage of herbal cosmetics has been increased to many folds in the personal care system [1]. Natural products have been used for folk medicine purposes throughout the world for thousands of years. Many of them have pharmacological properties such as antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and cytostatic effects. They have been recognized as useful for human medicine [2].
Herbal extracts are cultivated all over the world and is a prime name in horticulture sector. Cosmetics made up of herbal extracts for skin care and hair-care are very popular for their reliability [3–5].
Herbal cosmetic products include various formulations. The word herbal indicates safety as compared to synthetic
products which are having various adverse effects on human health [3–7]. Coloring lips is the ancient practice to enhance the beauty of lips and to give glamour touch to the face make up. For this the choice for shades of color, textures, lusters have been changed and became wider. This can be observed from the lip jelly, lip balm, lipstick marketed in hundred of sheds of colors to satisfy the demand [8]. This work was intended for extensive study of natural lip balm. This was based on the comprehensive literature search of natural lip balm, significance of natural excipients along formulation and evaluation of lip balm. These products are evaluated for organoleptic properties like color, odor, spread ability, pH, melting point, skin irritation and product consistency [8–10].
The color of a product also provides an indication of product quality and freshness. Natural colors are however, less toxic compared to synthetic colors [11].
2. Difference between lip and regular skin structure The lips are more attractive than the regular skin. Generally
the top corneum layer of regular skin has 15 to 16 layers mainly for protection purpose. The top corneum layer of the lip contains about only 3 to 4 layers and very thin compared to typical face skin. The lip skin contains very few melanin cells. Because of this, the blood vessels more clearly appear.
Through the skin of the lips that gives a lovely pinkish color of the lips. The lip skin has no hair follicle and no sweat glands. Therefore it does not have the sweat and body oil in protecting the lip from outside environment.
3. Anatomy of lips
The lips serve as organs of prehension, suction and speech. It is composed of the skin, superficial fascia, orbicularis muscle and the muscles inserted around it (areolar tissue & mucous membrane). The margins of the lips are covered with dry, red mucous membrane, continuous with the skin and containing numerous vascular papillae and touch corpuscles. The mucous membrane internally is reflected from the upper and lower lip upon the gums, and in the median line forms two folds of superioris and inferioris [10,12].
The areolar tissue or submucous layer contains the coronary vessels which completely encircle the buccal orifice near the free margin of the lips. The coronary vessels are the superior and inferior coronary arteries which arise from the facial. The superior coronary is larger than the inferior, and anastomoses with its fellow of the opposite side and gives off a small artery to the septum arteriaseptinasi. Compression of this artery will sometimes control nasal hemorrhage [12].
The superior labial or coronary vein begins as a plexus in the orbicular is muscle of the upper lip, passes with the coronary artery and drains into the facial vein a little below the alae of the nose of the veins which drain the lower lip the inferior coronary empties into the facial a little below the superior labial; but the chief branch from the lower lip descends as a rule to the submental vein, thence to the facial or often to the anterior jugular [9,10,12].
The nerves supplying the lower lip are derived from the mental which emerges from the bone through the mental foramen and sends large twigs to the mucous membrane, the integument and the fascia of the lip and chin. Some of the lymphatic vessels of the lips pass to a gland just above the body of the hyoid bone, while others pass to the sub maxillary glands. The labial glands are in the submucous layer of the lips around the orifice of the mouth. They secrete a mucous fluid. Mucous retention cysts develop when the ducts of these glands become occluded [12].
4. Lip Disorders
4.1 Swelling: An allergic reaction can make the lips swell. The reaction may be caused by sensitivity to certain foods or beverages, drugs, lipstick, or airborne irritants. When a cause can be identified and then eliminated, the lips usually return to normal. But frequently, the cause of the swelling remains a mystery. A condition called hereditary angioedema may cause recurring bouts of swelling. Nonhereditary conditions such as erythema multiforme, sunburn, cold and dry weather, or trauma may also cause the lips to swell [13].
4.2 Sun Damage:
Sun damage may make the lips, especially the lower lip, hard and dry. Red speckles or a white filmy look signal damage that increases the chance of subsequent cancer. This type of damage can be reduced by covering the lips with a lip balm containing sunscreen or by shielding the face from the sun’s harmful rays with a wide-brimmed hat [13].
4.3 Inflammation:
With inflammation of the lips (cheilitis), the corners of the mouth may become painful, irritated, red, cracked, and scaly. Cheilitis may result from a deficiency of vitamin B2 in the diet.
4.4 Discoloration:
Freckles and irregularly shaped brownish areas (melanotic macules) are common around the lips and may last for many years. These marks are not cause for concern. Multiple, small, scattered brownish black spots may be a sign of a hereditary disease called Peutz-Jeghers syndrome, in which polyps form in the stomach and intestines. Kawasaki disease, a disease of unknown cause that usually occurs in infants and children 8 years old or younger, can cause dryness and cracking of the lips and reddening of the lining of the mouth.
4.5 Sores:
A raised area or a sore with hard edges on the lip may be a form of skin cancer. Other sores may develop as symptoms of other medical conditions, such as oral herpes simplex virus infection or syphilis. Still others, such as keratoacanthoma, have no known cause [13].
5 Application of Lip Balm
Lip balms are formulations applied onto the lips to prevent drying and protect against adverse environmental factors.
Numerous lip balms of chemical origin are currently available in the market from companies like The body shop, Nivea, Himalaya, Blistex, etc. The cosmetic literature reports limited data on this type of formulation, although references related to lipstick apply because it is a cosmetic form similar to lip balm. This similarity extends to include organoleptic and stability requirements such as resistance to temperature variations, pleasant taste, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adherence and easy intentional removal [14].
Lip balm should not be considered equivalent to the lip gloss, with the former being a product intended for use by both men and women [14 &15].
To formulate lip balms, it is necessary to balance the concentration of the main ingredients including butters, oils and waxes and other excipients [15]. Many people seek weekly facials, daily skin scrubs, anti-aging lotions, and many other products to ensure they have healthy and glowing skin. But with all the attention being given to healthy skin, lip care is largely forgotten. Natural lip balms offer a natural way to maintain and promote healthy lips [15]. Lip balms are often eaten away by the user and hence it is imperative that health regulators have a microscopic look at the ingredients that go in to the lip balm. The dyes that contribute to the color of the lip balm are dangerous to humans on consumption [16].
6. Advantages and Disadvantages of Natural Lip Balm
6.1. Advantages of natural lip balm
a. Lip balms help to protect the natural health and beauty of the lips.
b. Sun block lip balms are proved to prevent ultraviolet rays from hurting the lips.
c. They are not gender specific products and both men and women can use them.
d. Lip balm products help to protect lips affected by cold sores, chapping and dryness.
e. Contact of the product with the skin will not cause a sensation of friction or dryness, and should allow the forming of a homogeneous layer over the lips in order to protect the labial mucous susceptible to environmental factors such as UV radiation, dryness and pollution.
f. It refreshed, renewed and also addresses lip-related symptoms resulting from colds, flu and allergies.
g. The use of natural lip cosmetic to treat the appearance of the face and condition of the skin [15,17–21].
6.2. Disadvantages of natural lip balm
a) Lip balms made of low quality ingredients can harm the lips seriously. Such lip balms may dry out the lips instead moisturizing it.
b) Lip balm addiction is another disadvantage usually seen with the use of them.
c) Compared to commercially-prepared lip balms, homemade lip balms tend to stay on the lips for a shorter duration of time. Thus need to reapply often.
d) Some companies manufacture lip balms considering only the beauty aspect, ignoring the health benefits and soft character of the skin. Such products will gradually damage the natural color, softness and glow of the lips.
e) The naturally derived colors and flavours are more difficult to obtain and also have issues related to stability in the products
f) Natural oils have other disadvantages such as greasier, comedogenic, and less spreadability [15,17–21].
7. Common Ingredients used in Natural Lip Balm
Formulation
The list of materials used as key formulation ingredients for natural lip balm given in the Table no.1 as described below
Table №1 List of Natural Ingredients
Base [15,17–19]
Oils
[3,15,17–19]
Coloring Agent [15,17–21]
Flavouring Agent [16–19,23]
Cocca butter
Coconut oil
Beet root
Strawberry
Bees Wax
Olive oil
Pomegranate
Honey
Shea Wax
Almond Oil
Marigold
Orange
Shea butter
Vitamin E oil
Tomato
Saffron/Kesar
White bees wax
Peanut Oil
Jabul
Raspberry
Yellow bees wax
Tea tree oil
Watermelon
Vanilla
Carnauba wax
Glycerin
Honey
Mango
Candelilla wax
Castor oil
Saffron
Rose oil
Mango butter
Jojoba oil
Turmeric
Sandalwood
Avocado butter
Corn oil
Capsicum
Jasmine
Olive wax
Arachis oil
Cherry
Cherry
Jojoba wax
Lemon oil
Orange
Apple
Olive butter
Avocado oil
Strawberry
Lemon
Sweet Almond butter
Sesame oil
Mango
Apricot
Sweet almond wax
Sunflower oil
Carrot
Rosemary
Raspberry butter
Grape seed oil
Lemon
Pineapple
7.1 Base
Waxes form an important group of ingredients for the
manufacture of personal care products and decorative
cosmetics. Waxes are used in different industries and
products. They are predominately used in candles, but also
find important applications in food, cosmetics and
pharmaceutical industries as thickeners/emulsifiers.
Chemically, waxes are complex mixtures of hydrocarbons
and fatty acids combined with esters. Waxes are harder, less
greasy and more brittle than fats. They are very resistant to
moisture, oxidization and bacteria. There are four categories
of waxes as: (a) Animal Waxes: Beeswax, lanolin,
spermaceti; (b) Plant Waxes: Carnauba, candelilla, jojoba; ©
Mineral Waxes: Ozokerite, paraffin, microcrystalline,
ceresin; (d) Synthetic Waxes: Polyethylene, carbowax,
acrawax, stearon. The most widely used waxes for cosmetic
products are beeswax, carnauba and candelilla wax[17].
Waxes are esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol. Jojoba oil
is therefore a wax, not oil. Physically, waxes are
characterized by a high melting point (50–100oC). The most
used wax is beeswax which is a good emollient and
thickener. Two other natural waxes often used in cosmetics
are carnauba and candelilla wax. Both are harder and have a
higher melting point making them more stable and suitable
for dry products e.g. lip balm [17].
4
International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science 2015; 5(1): 1–7
Cocoa butter is a natural fat that comes from cocoa bean and
it gives a creamy softness to the lip balm. It will nourish and
moisturize lips and help heal chapped and dry lips because it
contains antioxidants [17&18]. Another important and useful
component of lip balm is white beeswax with melting point
62º-64ºC. It usefully binds oils and high melting point waxes.
It is used in 3 to 10% of the total formula. It shrinks on
cooling and thus helps preparation of molded products. At
higher concentration it produces a dull way appearance and
causes the balm to crumble during use.
Candelilla wax has a melting point 65º-69ºC and can be is
used in 5–10% of formulation. A mixture of candelilla wax
and beeswax is very good for making lip balm. If candelilla
wax is used to a little in a excess than beeswax the product
gets a smooth and glossy appearance. On the other side
carnauba wax increases the melting point of the base and
hardens the lip balm therefore used in very small amounts. It
brings an attractive luster to the products [19].
7.2 Oils
Oils and fats are differing in their physical forms; generally
the latter are solid at room temperature. Both fats and oils are
chemically glycerol esters composed of glycerol and fatty
acids and are also called as triglycerides.
Fatty acids can be saturated or unsaturated, thereby
determining the stability and property of the oil. Oils with a
high degree of saturated fatty acids (lauric, myristic, palmitic
and stearic acids) include coconut oil, cottonseed oil, and
palm oil. Oils with a high degree of unsaturated fatty acids
(oleic, arachidonic, linoleic acid) are canola oil, olive oil,
corn oil, almond oil, safflower oil, castor oil and avocado oil.
Saturated oils are more stable and do not become rancid as
quickly as unsaturated oils. However, unsaturated oils are
smoother, more precious, less greasy, and better absorbed by
the skin. Natural butters like shea butter, avocado butter or
cocoa butter are not true butters but natural fats. In general,
natural butters are excellent emollients and thickeners and
dependent on the type may have various additional properties
(e.g. antioxidant & and soothing properties in shea and
avocado butter due to phenolic compounds) [17 &18].
The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes
to provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. An ideal
mixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and
produces a thin film with good covering power [18].
Sunflower or olive oil, both oils will give a great gloss to lips
[17]. Castor oil is used in many lip balm because of its good
qualities, though now days some other oils or solvents are
being used. A refined grade castor oil is of good color and is
odorless and tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticizing
agent. An antioxidant is to be added to the castor oil against
rancidification though it is not as prone to rancidification as
other vegetable oils like olive oil or almond oil [19].
Jojoba oil is known for its skin-softening properties which
can prevent lips from dehydrating. While wolfberry seed oil
is renowned for its moisturizing and skin conditioning
properties. Rosehip oil is excellent for maintaining then
natural moisture balance in skin. Vitamin E is a well-known
antioxidant that plays an essential role in the lip balm base.
Peppermint essential oil energizes and revitalizes skin.
Cinnamon essential oil is an excellent antioxidant. Lavender
essential oil is soothing and nourishing to skin. And
grapefruit essential oil is light and refreshing for dry lips [13-
15]. Almond oil is pale yellow oil with slight characteristic
odour. It consists of glycerides chiefly of oleic acid with
smaller amounts of other acids namely, linoleic, myristic and
palmitic. It has emollient properties [18].
7.3 Coloring Agent
Colorants or coloring agents are mainly used to impart a
distinctive appearance to the Cosmetic products [17, 24–26].
Color has been used in cosmetics since early times. Basically,
a desire to buy a cosmetic product is controlled by three
senses namely sight, touch and smell. As such as, color is an
important ingredient of cosmetic formulations [18]. The color
is imparted to the lips in two ways; (a) By staining the skin
with a solution of dyestuff which can penetrate the outer layer
of the lip skin, (b) By covering the lips with a colored layer
which serves to hide any skin roughness and give a smooth
appearance. The first requirement is met by soluble dyes and
the second one is met is insoluble dyes and pigments which
make the film more or less opaque. Modern lip balms contain
both to achieve the combined effect. The colors should be
from the list of certified dyes under the drugs and cosmetics
act [19]. The naturally occurring colors from different plant
and fruit sources are listed in Table number 2.
The colorant derived from natural source should be nontoxic
with no physiological activity. It should be a definite
chemical compound because then only its coloring power will
be reliable, its assay will be practicable and easier. Its
tinctorial (coloring) power should be high enough so that
only small quantities would be sufficient for use. Colorants
should be unaffected by light, tropical temperatures,
hydrolysis and micro‐organisms and therefore they must be
stable on storage [23–26].
Colorants should not affected by oxidizing or reducing agents
and pH changes and also should not interferes with the tests
and assays. Water soluble colorants are equally desirable with
oil‐soluble and spirit‐soluble colors. The most important
characteristic of colorants is compatibility with other
ingredients and medicament. It should be free from
objectionable taste and odour and must be readily available
and inexpensive [23–26]. The examples of natural colorants
are obtained from beet root, saffron, turmeric,etc. Saffron is
dried stigma of flowers of the plant Cross Sativuslinne. It is a
perennial plant and is grown in Kashmir in India. It is also
cultivated in Spain, France, Greece and Iran. The principle
coloring agent in saffron is crocin. Crocin is yellow powder, a
glycoside in nature and easily soluble in water [18].
Table №2 Common Color and Associated Food [21]
Color
Chromophore
Plant sources
Nutrients
Purple-blue
Anthocyanins
Eggplant, blackberry, purple, cabbage,
plum, blueberry, raisins, prunes, purple
grapes, figs
Lutein, zeaxanthin, resveratrol,
Vit. C, flavanoid, ellagic acid,
Quecertin
Green
Chlorophyll
Avocado, cucumber, spinach, kale,
broccoli, snow pea, zucchini, artichoke,
lettuce, kiwi
Lutein, zeaxanthin, Vit. C,
calcium, folate, carotene
White-tan
Anthoxanthins
Cauliflower, mushrooms, parsnip, potato,
ginger, onions, jicama, banana, garlic,
onions
Ancillin, Potassium, Selenium
Yellow-orange
Carotenoids
Papaya, pineapple, apricot, pumkin, peach,
peach, carrot, orange, corn
carotene, zeaxanthin, flavanoid,
vitaminC, Potassium
Red
Lycopene or
Anthocyanins
Cranberry, beet, tomato watermelon,
strawberry, pomegranate
Ellagicacid, quecertin,
Hesperidin , etc.
Table №3 List of Flavour
Taste
Masking Flavour
Salt
Butterscotch, maple
Bitter
Wild cherry, walnut, chocolate-mint, licorice
Sweet
Fruit, berry, vanilla
Acid
Citrus
7.4 Flavouring Agent
Flavours or flavouring agent are usually required to mask the
four basic taste sensations. Flavour refers to a mixed
sensation of taste, touch, smell, sight and sound, all of which
involve a combination of physiochemical and physiological
actions that influence the perception of substances. With the
expansion of technology in the flavour industry, many
artificial or imitation flavours have been created. The creation
of an acceptable flavour is more of an art than a science [23].
Flavourants are selected on the basis of the taste of the drug
or other ingredients need to be incorporated. The following
Table number 3 shows the masking flavor with respect to
different taste.
Flavours used in lip balm should not contain any ingredient
which may be irritating or toxic. These should have good
taste and should be able to mask fatty odour of the base [18].
Flavouring agents are an essential component to mask the
odour of the fatty or wax base as well as to impart an
attractive flavor. They are normally used in the concentration
range of 2–4% of total formulation. Flavour should be stable
and compatible with the other constituents of the lip balm.
The flavours should not be very strong as to clash with or
overpower other flavors that may be used concurrently with
the lip balm. Perfumes of the fruit flavor type have been
advocated as well. Also something edible can be used [19].
The commonly used flavours are apricot, strawberry,
raspberry, cherry, honey, etc. Honey has the capacity to serve
as a natural food preservative [20].
8. Method of Lip Balm Preparation
The details of general method of lip balm preparation are
described in this section. Select appropriate ingredients for lip
balm formulation from Table number 1. Initially melt the
accurately weighed amount of waxes in hot water bath in
descending order of their melting point with continuous
stirring/heated till it melts completely [24]. Then coloring
agent dissolved in oil or water depends on solubility and add
to the mixture of melted waxes. Finally add flavouring agent
like honey, vanilla which are also act as a preservative and
continuously stirred to get a homogenized mixture. The
mixture should be stirred vigorously until a smooth emulsion
form. Then, this mixture could be poured into clean and
lubricated moulds and allow them to cool to achieve
contraction of the waxes to facilitate easy removal of the
balm [24 & 25]. Recently the work also patented on the
preparation of botanical butter stick lip balm cosmetics [27].
9. Evaluation parameters for lip balm
Quality of a lip balm product can be assessed by the product
performance. Therefore significance of evaluation parameters
of any product is abundant. It helps to maintain the stability
along with the purity and uniformity of product. The main
evaluation parameters of lip balm products are described in
this section. The appearance of cosmetics products plays
paramount role from consumer’s perspective. This includes
color, odor and texture of the product [17]. By visualizing in
10x magnification under microscope color and appearance
can be characterized, while odor can be compared by the group of evaluators.
The spreadability of lip balm can be tested by applying the
formulated lip balm on glass slide at room temperature to
observe uniformity in the formulation of protective layer and
whether the stick fragmental deformed or broke during
application for appropriate results of different formulation.
The melting temperature and pH of lip balm are also
commonly evaluated by capillary method and pH meter
respectively. Ex-vivo and in vivo tests should be performed
for skin irritation test. The product need to study for the
surface anomalies such as formation crystals on surfaces or
contamination by moulds, fungi etc. There should not be sign
of any surface defects. The lip balm products are evaluated
for perfume and aging stability [18].
10. Conclusion
Due to tremendous demands of beauty enhancing products
cosmetics industry is flourishing. This work has reviewed the
current status of natural lip balm products. This also studied
all aspects of natural lip balm including natural ingredients,
formulation methods, evaluation and applications. Hence it
can be concluded that the extensive literature study has been
performed on the natural lip balm products and shown wide
scope for such products in future.
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