The Berkshires
Tranquil
towns and a wealth of cultural attractions are nestled in these cool green
hills of the Berkshires.
For more than a century the Berkshires have been a favored retreat
for wealthy Bostonians and New Yorkers. And we’re not just talking Rockefellers
– the entire Boston symphony summers here as well.
The Berkshire Visitors Bureau (66 allen St, Pittsfield; Ph: 413-743-4500;
h10am-5pm) provides information
on the whole region.
EVENT: New England in Fall
It’s
a major event, one approaching epic proportions in New England. Watching the
leaves change color. You can do it anywhere – all you need is one brilliant
tree. But if you’re most people, you’ll want lots of trees.
From
the Berkshires in Massachusetts and the Litchfeld Hills in Connecticut to the
Green Mountains in Vermont, entire hillsides blaze in brilliant crimsons,
oranges and yellows.
Covered
bridges and white-steeple churches with abundant maple trees put Vermont and
New Hampshire at the forefront of leaf-peeping heaven.
Great Barrington
Woolworths, diners and
hardware stores have given way to art galleries, urbane boutiques and locavore
restaurants on Main St, Great
Barrington. The picturesque Housatonic River flows through the center of town,
with the River Walk (www.gbriverwalk.org) offering a
perfect perch from which to admire it. Access the walking path from Main St
(behind Rite-Aid) or from Bridge St. At the intersection of Main and Railroad
Sts, you’ll find an artful mix of galleries and eateries.
Gypsy Joynt CAFE $$
(Ph: 413-644-8811; www.gypsyjoyntcafe.net; 293 Main St;
mains $10-15; h11am-midnight Wed-Sat, to 9pm Sun, to 4pm Mon; Wv)
This is a family affair, with three generations pitching in
to serve innovative pizzas, beefy sandwiches and bountiful salads. Most
everything is organic and locally sourced. The Gypsy Joynt also throws in great
coffee, live music and a super boho atmosphere.
Baba Louie’s PIZZA $$
(Ph: 413-528-8100; www.babalouiespizza.com; 286 Main St;
pizzas $12-18; h11:30am-9:30pm; Wv) Baba’s is known for its wood-fired pizza with
organic sourdough crust, and guys with dreadlocks. There’s a pizza for every
taste, including vegan and gluten-free options.
Barrington Brewery BREWPUB
(www.barringtonbrewery.net; 420
Stockbridge Rd; mains $8-20; h11:30am-9:30pm; W) Solar-powered microbrews – you know you’re
in Great Barrington! Outdoor seating is divine on a balmy summer night. Located
2 miles north of the town center on the road to
Stockbridge.
Stockbridge
This timeless New England town, with
not even a single traffic light, looks like something straight out of a Norman
Rockwell painting.
No coincidence! Rockwell (1894–1978), the most popular illustrator in US
history, lived on Main St and used the town and its residents as subjects. See
his slice-of-life artwork up close, as well has his studio, at the evocative Norman Rockwell Museum (%413-298-4100; www.nrm.org;
9 glendale Rd/Ma 183; adult/ child $18/6; h10am-5pm)
Lenox Village
The refined village of
Lenox is the cultural heart of the Berkshires, thanks to the open air
Tanglewood Music
Festival (%888-266-1200; www.tanglewood.org; 297 West St/Ma 183, lenox; hlate Jun-early Sep). One of the country’s premier music series,
Tanglewood hosts the Boston Symphony Orchestra and guest artists like James
Taylor and Yo-Yo Ma. Buy a lawn ticket, spread a blanket, uncork a bottle of
wine and enjoy the quintessential Berkshires experience.
Other excellent summertime
cultural fare includes Shakespeare
& Company (Ph: 413-637-1199; www.shakespeare.org; 70 Kemble St; hlate Jun-early Sep) and the renowned Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival (Ph: 413-243-0745;
www.jacobspillow.org; 358george Carter Rd, Becket; hmid-Jun–aug).
4 Sleeping
Cornell in Lenox B&B $$
(Ph: 413-637-4800; www.cornellbb.com; 203 Main St; rincl
breakfast from $149; iW) With three historic houses on 4 acres, Cornell offers
a variety of comfortable room layouts and friendly, accommodating service.
Birchwood Inn INN $$$
(Ph: 413-637-2600; www.birchwood-inn.com; 7 Hubbard St; r
incl breakfast $249-379; aW#) The oldest house in Lenox (1767), the Birchwood Inn
offers gorgeous period rooms, scrumptious breakfast and warm hospitality.
Eating
Haven Cafe & Bakery CaFE $
(Ph: 413-637-8948;
www.havencafebakery.com; 8Franklin St; mains $8-15; h7:30am-3pm; Wv).
It looks like a cafe, but
the sophisticated food evokes a more upscale experience. Try inventive egg
dishes for breakfast or fancy salads
and sandwiches for lunch – all highlighting local organic ingredients.
Nudel aMERICaN $$$
(Ph: 413-551-7183;
www.nudelrestaurant.com; 37 Church St; mains $22-26; h5:30-9:30pm TueSun) A driving force in the area’s sustainable-food
movement, just about everything on Nudel’s menu is seasonally inspired and locally
sourced. Incredible flavors. Nudel doesn’t take reservations, so arrive early
to avoid a long wait.
Off the Beaten Track
HANCOCK SHAKER VILLAGE
Just west of the town of Pittsfeld,
Hancock Shaker Village (www.hancockshakervillage.org; US
20; adult/youth/child $20/8/free; h10am-5pm midapr–Oct; c) is a fascinating museum illustrating
the lives of the Shakers, the religious sect that founded the village in 1783.
The Shakers believed in communal ownership, the sanctity of work and celibacy,
the latter of which proved to be their demise. Their handiwork – graceful in
its simplicity – includes
wooden furnishings and 20 buildings, the most famous of which is the round stone
barn.
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